New Zealand

I've seen countless amazing pictures of New Zealand and heard nothing but great things from other travelers. Truly a nature lover's dream. With so many Lord of the Rings filming locations, it's easy to see why this small but mighty country is such a draw. I've been excited about visiting here for ages and so glad I was able to finally do it. It's also one of those places I wanted to visit sooner rather than later before further impacts from tourism and climate change. I'm happy to report that New Zealand exceeded my expectations. If you do end up visiting this beautiful country, I would highly encourage you to spend sufficient time (3-4 weeks), especially if you live very far away. In my opinion, the best way to explore New Zealand is by car or campervan. The South in particular is a road trip enthusiast's adventure of a lifetime. It's not as dramatic driving in the North, but certainly a vehicle offers flexibility to go where you please. Traveling by bus or flying is also a convenient option. For those unfamiliar, New Zealand is actually two islands, North and South, connected by the Cook Strait which is crossable by ferry. You can do so with or without a vehicle, which includes campervans, making it very easy to travel between the two islands. And of course flying is an option. Most locals I spoke with do 1 week in the North Island and 3 weeks in the South Island. I did 2 weeks in each because I spent some extra time in the beginning just relaxing in Auckland before gearing up for the road trip. The sheer natural beauty, adventures, friendly people, safety, and unique experiences, make New Zealand a magnificent place to visit. Especially for solo travel. I fully expect to return in the future.
Last Visit: Apr 2024
Cost: $286/day
Stayed: 33 days
Suggest Staying: 3-4 weeks
English: 5/5
Safety: 5/5
Currency: Dollar (NZD)
Transport: Car, bus, train, metro, taxi, Uber

My Favorites


1. Wanaka

Roy’s Peak

Highlights: Mountains, lakes, rivers, hiking
Suggest Staying: 3-7 days
Stay Around: Wanaka or Arrowtown
Internet: Strong
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Most people talk about Queenstown, but what I think they really mean is the area including and surrounding Queenstown. Wanaka is one such place, situated on Lake Wanaka about an hour north of Queenstown. Wanaka is a bit more laid back, while Queenstown will be a bit more touristy and expensive in comparison. Especially if you like shopping. Wanaka is one of the most beautiful places in New Zealand in my opinion and depending your itinerary, could be a bit more centrally located. That said, Queenstown might be a better option, and it also has the benefit of an airport. If you do choose Queenstown as your jumping off point, end point, or basecamp, consider staying in Arrowtown which is smaller but cheaper with a more historical and nature feel to it. Located about 30 minutes north of Queenstown. This town was recommended to me by many locals for cheaper accommodations. It’s all beautiful and in great proximity to everything, so you can’t go wrong either way. Wanaka has stellar hikes, awesome day trips, and the town itself is lovely. I was even lucky enough to be there for a solar weather event where I got to see the Southern Lights.

See & Do

  • Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea. If you’re approaching from the north, this is the first thing you’ll see upon entering Wanaka. There are some incredible viewpoints along Highway 6.
  • Wanaka Town. The town center is great, plenty of great shops, cafes, and restaurants. Sitting by the lake at sunset is lovely. There’s also the now Instagram famous Wanaka Tree which I initially snubbed my nose at, but it actually makes for really great pictures.
  • Roy’s Peak. One of my favorite all time hikes. This 7-hour 12 mile roundtrip hike is quite steep and challenging, but the views are spectacular at Roy’s Peak Lookout (before the summit). The parking lot gets pretty crowded as the day goes on, especially during peak season, not to mention people crowds at the lookout point for photos. You don’t need to go all the way up to the summit for great views. Sound too difficult? Even just hiking 15-20 minutes up the trail will give you some incredible views.
  • Diamond Lake & Rocky Mountain. Hiking trail system that will take you past a nice lake and then continue on to some more incredible views rivaling those of Roy’s Peak. And it’s much less crowded. You can do this as a loop hike or up and back the same side. Depending on the weather, it can get icy in spots and a little hairy, but if you wear good shoes, are an experienced hiker, and are reasonably fit, you shouldn’t have any issues. It’s about a 4-mile 3-4 hour hike if you include the summit. Only about an hour to 90 minutes to the main viewpoint. There are various opinions on the route: east vs. west vs. loop. I’m inconclusive on which is the best way. I went up and back the east side after hearing some hikers say the west side was slippery and more exposed that day, but even that was inconsistent.
  • Treble Cone. Popular ski area.
  • Mount Aspiring. Valley and river mountain views with hiking and waterfalls like Wishbone Falls and Rob Roy Glacier. Park at Raspberry Flat carpark.

Food & Drink

  • Dripping Bowl. Health food, drinks, grocery store.
  • Urban Grind. Healthy restaurant.
  • Big Fig Wanaka. Cafe.
  • The Spice Room. Indian food.
  • Revology. Home goods store that sells tea, soaps, books, and assortment of other wellness things.

Nearby

  • Queenstown. Beautiful town situated on the lake nestled in the mountains with plenty of shopping and restaurants. Great jumping off point or basecamp. For food, check out Bespoke Kitchen, Boasted Cafe, Remarkables Town Center, Eatery By Frank’s, Bavarian Queenstown. For views, check out Bob’s Peak accessible by funicular.
  • The Remarkables. Mountain range.
  • Roaring Meg. Located along Highway 6, a beautiful drive, and this is a lookout along the turquoise blue river. Beautifully contrasted with trees and mountains that run alongside. Especially gorgeous during fall when the leaves change color. Reminiscent of Colorado.
  • Arrowtown. Historical old town where Chinese settlers lived. Nature trails for walking or biking along the river. Nice views.
  • Cardrona. There is some historical significance to the lodge here and I think some opportunities for skiing, but it’s not much of a town. Check out the bra fence, which is exactly what it sounds like. Nice views.

2. Mount Cook

Hooker Valley

Highlights: Glaciers, valleys, rivers
Suggest Staying: 1-2 days
Stay Around: Wanaka
Internet: Weak
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Aoraki / Mount Cook is an absolutely breathtaking place for which pictures don’t do it justice. The crown jewel of the area is the Hooker Valley track which is an absolute must do. Another favorite New Zealand hike of mine. The hike itself is magnificent with its sweeping views from the valley of boulders, mountains, and glacier rivers in all directions. If you can time it right in the early afternoon, I would highly suggest timing your return so that the sun begins to set below the mountain peaks on your walk back. You’ll see a completely different set of colors this way. When you get to the end, don’t stop at the observation point, go down to the lake. The picture featured in this post with the reflections of the glacier on the lake itself is only viewable in the afternoon and from the lake’s edge. It’s very cool to have gotten this photo realizing that most people completely overlooked it. On your drive to and from, stop and enjoy the view of Mt Cook and the valley below hugging Lake Pukaki. You can’t get here from Franz Josef directly. While this is a doable day trip from Wanaka, I would suggest either staying at Mt Cook Village or better yet, Lake Tekapo which is gorgeous. It’s also a dark sky reserve and wonderful for stargazing anywhere in the vicinity. Everyone in towns embraces the dark sky and uses low light at night to help keep that designation.

See & Do

  • Hooker Valley track. This 6-mile 3-4 hour hike is easy to moderate without much elevation gain. You’ll have to cross a couple suspension bridges, but they’re quite stable.
  • Tasman Glacier viewpoint & Blue Lakes. Glacier views. Blue and green lakes. Relatively short walks.

Food & Drink

  • Mt Cook Alpine Salmon Shop. Smoked salmon, sushi, and other salmon options at this quick stop.

Nearby

  • Lake Tekapo. For hot springs, Tekapo Springs. For stargazing, Silver River Stargazing, Dark Sky Project or drive yourself out towards Motuariki viewpoint (rough road and it’s really dark at night!). For food, TLV Restaurant and Bar (reservations suggested).
  • Omarama. Town for supplies and hot tubs.
  • Twizel. Town for supplies like gas and food.

3. Milford Sound

Milford Sound

Highlights: Mountains, lakes, waterfalls, hiking
Suggest Staying: 2-4 days
Stay Around: Te Anau
Internet: Good
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Milford Sound is one of the most popular and recognized places in all of New Zealand. While it is the most popular sound in Fiordland, there are others as well, including the also popular Doubtful Sound. Much of which is best accessible by boat. There are also several tramps (long multi-day hikes) in the area. It’s very beautiful both on land and on the water. Glaciers, waterfalls, hiking, and wildlife fill the landscape. Waterfalls will be more spectacular with recent rain, which is relatively often. If you want to do the short cruise out on the sound, I would prioritize that first and then stop at any scenic spots or activities on the way back. Eglinton Valley is a great stop for photos, especially early morning and late afternoon.

See & Do

  • Milford Sound. The primary attraction. Beautiful landscapes and waterfalls such as Lady Bowen Falls and Stirling Falls. Most people experience by boat out on to the sound as far as where it meets the see and then back. Boats leave only a couple times per day, so check schedules. It takes between 2-4 hours to drive there from Te Anau or Queenstown respectively. You can arrange for a coach to drive you to the ferry and then on the boat through companies like RealNZ. Or just drive yourself and park in the lot for a fee. I opted to just walk around the beach and do some light hiking since I just missed the boat and was indiffered about it anyway. The drive into Milford Sound is gorgeous, and there are some stops along the way for waterfalls and hiking. You can certainly spend multiple days here.
  • Mitre Peak. The primary backdrop.
  • Routeburn Track. One of the country’s finest walks. Forests, flora, fauna, waterfalls, lakes, and rivers.
  • Pop’s View Lookout. Views of the valley below.
  • Marian Falls. Waterfall just off the road. If you have time, continue on to Lake Marian.
  • Falls Creek Falls. Waterfall just off the road.
  • Gertrude Valley. Vista point lookout off the road. Continue on the Gertrude Saddle Route for an epic hike you’ll likely have mostly to yourself. It can get icy in colder months towards the river and waterfalls making parts it impassable. The route leading up to it is fun, a little bit challenging, and gorgeous. I just went for a couple miles as far as I felt like walking and had time for.
  • Hundred Falls. Several waterfalls running down the mountain.
  • Chasm Falls. Short hike to a waterfall. Skip if you’re short on time.
  • Milford Track. Multi-day tramp. Start at Sandfly point, accessible via water taxi from the main dock at Milford Sound. This track looks pretty spectacular if you have the time and inclination to do it. There are some huts along the way for sleeping, or you can just camp.

Food & Drink

  • Fat Duck. This place is exceptional.
  • Hollyford Cafe. Family owned breakfast and lunch cafe.

Nearby

  • Te Anau. Great place to stay for adventures in Milford Sound. Nice small quiet town with beautiful views of the lake and surrounding mountains. Check out the Glowworm Caves.
  • Manapouri. Nice little town. Gateway to Doubtful Sound.
  • Doubtful Sound. Another beautiful, less traveled sound in Fiordland. More involved, less traveled, more wildlife opportunities. You’ll take two boats and a bus over a mountain pass. Check out these options at RealNZ. I don’t think you can do this on your own, other than getting yourself to Manapouri.
  • Kepler Track. Another popular multi-day tramp. Or you can just check out part of it.
  • Anduin River and Boulder Reach Viewpoints. Two Lord of the Rings film locations near each other.

Tips

  • Where to Stay. You can stay in Milford, but it will be cheaper and more relaxing with more amenities in Te Anau, which is where most people seem to stay. It’s lovely. Manapouri is another smaller town option. Some people stay in Queenstown and do this as a day trip, but it’s a lot of driving.
  • The Sounds. Milford Sound is best for waterfalls as long as it’s raining or has rained very recently. Doubtful Sounds is better if you want less crowds, more off-the-beaten-path, and opportunities for wildlife. It’s more involved though as mentioned. Even if you don’t get out on either sound, the entire area around Te Anau, Manapouri, and Fiordland is absolutely incredible. Both options require a pretty substantial amount of time to drive there and it varies depending on traffic, so plan accordingly. If you want to do any hiking, it will be difficult to get everything done in a single day.

4. Rotorua & Lake Taupo

Lake Taupo

Highlights: Hot springs, lakes
Suggest Staying: 2-5 days
Stay Around: Lake Taupo or Rotorua
Internet: Strong
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If you like hot springs, Rotorua is the place for you. It’s a beautiful area with hot pools galore. There are many geothermal attractions, river activities like white water rafting, and even a giant redwood forest. If you’re interested in Maori culture, this is probably the best place to learn more about the history, the people, and get first hand exposure. As a special treat for Lord of the Rings fans, Hobbiton is an easy day trip, either by car or organized tour. Or stop en route from Auckland if coming by car. Lake Taupo is another beautiful area nearby that offers a similar vibe. If you’re debating where to stay, I would say Rotorua has a better concentration of attractions and hot springs. Lake Taupo is a bit nicer of a town, feels slightly less touristy, and has a prettier lake setting in my opinion. That said, you can’t really go wrong with either. I stayed in Rotorua for proximity to things I wanted to do which was great. If I were to go back, I’d probably stay in Lake Taupo. One great thing about the area is that you can take it easy, be active, or have a mixture of both.

See & Do

  • Polynesian Spa. Most popular hot springs with many pools, half alkaline, half acidic, for different healing factors. And there’s a nice view of the lake. If you plan to go more than once, you probably will, definitely go for a multi-day pass which is discounted. There’s also a nice healthy cafe on site. I think you can rent swimsuits and towels, but not sure. They offer a variety of services and packages, but the most simple is just heading to the public pools.
  • More Hot Springs. There are several other hot springs in Rotorua, including Wai Ariki Hot Springs, Hell’s Gate Geothermal Reserve & Mud Spa, and Secret Spot Hot Tubs.
  • Kuirau Park. Geothermal pools and footpath with nice walking trails.
  • Te Pa Tu Gathering Place. Maori culture and events.
  • Rotorua Night Market. Lively night market offering a wide variety of global cuisines, plus crafts, gifts & produce.
  • Whakarewarewa Living Village. Cultural attraction with Maori dance performances, a traditional feast & geothermal features.
  • Whakarewarewa Forest. Giant redwood forest with a treetop walk, hiking trails, and mountain biking.
  • Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve. Geothermal attractions such as Te Puia and Pohutu Geyser.
  • Buried Village of Te Wairoa. Archaeological site featuring an excavated village buried by an 1886 eruption, with guided tours.
  • Waimangu Volcanic Valley. Beautiful geothermal area. Check out Frying Pan Lake, Inferno Crater, and Rainbow Mountain Scenic Reserve.
  • Kerosene Creek. Natural hot springs area with a waterfall, surrounded by dense forest & primitive trails. Probably don’t want to swim too long as it smells quite sulfury, but this place is awesome.
  • Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland. Pools of colorful bubbling water are heated by volcanoes at this oft-visited natural attraction. Walk the Thermal Track. Take a dip in “Hot ‘n’ cold” on your way out if you can find it along the road. Accessible from both sides of the road.

Food & Drink

  • Picnic Cafe. Nice locals breakfast spot.
  • Victoria’s Cafe Kitchen Bar. Really good and healthy food with nice ambiance in Taupo.
  • Hardy’s Health Store. Great selection of health and wellness products. Especially good for snacks in Taupo.

Nearby

  • Lake Taupo. As mentioned, nice little town nestled on the lake. Good shops and restaurants.
  • Huka Falls. Turquoise blue falls and river. You can take a speedboat right up to the falls or just hike to the viewing decks. There’s a smaller parking area with a short hike that’s a nice little walk and ends up at the main viewpoint. Also offers a view from the river while the viewpoint is above the falls.
  • Hobbiton. Re-created Shire from LOTR tucked away on a local farm. Requires a tour. Free beer or ginger beer at the end. As of 2024, there are two structures you can actually go inside which is pretty amazing. Really beautiful place. It’s a little pricey, but it’s pretty amazing and the story of its creation, or really its re-creation, is quite interesting. Book in advance, it gets very busy.
  • Waitomo Glowworm Caves. These glowworms only exist in New Zealand, here and in Te Anau. It’s a very special and unique experience. Requires a raft tour through the cave where you’ll be delighted by the magical glow of the glowworms. It’s farther out, but well worth the visit. Ruakuri is another glowworm cave that’s a walking tour and a bit more up close and personal where you also get to see a cool cave with its various formations. I’d recommend if you have time for this as well. Waitomo is a bit more leisurely and not as long, while Ruakuri is more active and interactive. Both are great and you’ll see glowworms at both.

5. Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Highlights: Volcano, hiking, skiing, waterfalls, LOTR
Suggest Staying: 1-3 days
Stay Around: National Park (Adventure Lodge)
Internet: Good
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Remember the end of Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King when Frodo and Sam get to Mordor and destroy the ring? Well that’s a real place! Just without the fiery lava and orcs. For those of you that want the ultimate Lord of the Rings experience and/or an incredible challenge rewarded with an amazing experience, trek the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Considered one of the best single day hikes in the world, this has become one of my favorite hikes and accomplishments to date. While this is the most popular attraction in the area, there are also other activities to enjoy in Tongariro National Park as well as some other LOTR film locations. If you’re planning on visiting Rotorua, it’s not far.

See & Do

  • Tongariro Alpine Crossing. At 20 km (or 12 mi) with average time to finish at 7-8 hours hiking up a volcano, make sure you’re in shape. I was passed by some who actually ran this trail and in shorts and a t-shirt to boot. For the rest of us mortals, take it slow and dress warmly. Weather is unpredictable and it gets quite cold and windy, especially as you ascend. Most people start at Mangatepopo and finish at Ketetahi, which is the recommended route. You can bus and get picked up at timed intervals or park at Ketetahi and catch a shuttle to the starting point at Mangatepopo. Buses are usually timed to when they expect people to finish and then intervals thereafter. I found this way to be easiest and worked out nicely, arranging through the lodge. I did encounter trekkers who hiked the opposite way, but it’s very steep at the midway point with scree and soft sand making it much easier to go down rather than up. This website has all the details to help you plan your trek. The first waypoint is 1-1.5h to Soda Springs. Not all that impressive and if you think you might run out of energy or time, I would definitely skip it. Another 40-60 minutes to South Crater which is where it starts to get challenging. If you’re struggling fitness wise, turn back. It only gets harder. Also be aware of the weather. If there’s low visibility or heavy rain, turn back. In any case, this is really the last opportunity to turn back because continuing on puts you half way and at that point, you might as well keep going until the end. Another 1h lands you at Red Crater which is now the half way point and also the most dangerous because it’s steep and slippery when dry and even more so when wet. You will be rewarded with beautiful views of the Emerald Lakes and then up close and personal once you reach the bottom. Don’t touch. Continue 40 minutes to Blue Lake. Now it’s just a declined hike past some more volcano landscape into a forest for the next 2.5-3 hours. The descent is long. It can be tiring and rough on the knees, so consider trekking poles, which are also helpful for stability on the entire hike as well. This trek is a challenging hike and you should be mindful of your footing and surroundings, like geothermal activity, weather, etc. to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience. It’s very doable as long as you plan it well, prior to and during the excursion. It’s also worth noting that there are some sections early in the trail where you’ll have cell reception in case you do want to turn back and need a ride. You likely won’t have reception in the car park. I highly encourage checking in at the visitor center on arrival to check conditions. I would also plan to stay a couple of days in case of bad weather. I booked 3 nights. One of the days was nothing but rain and the next day way dry.
  • Whakapapa Village. Lodging and visitor center. Continue up the road to the ski resort for skiing and incredible views.
  • Taranaki Falls and Tama Lake. Located in the national park that are less intense and less traveled than the alpine crossing if you’re looking for a substitute. Or if you still have energy the next day.
  • Tawhai Falls. LOTR film location for Gollum’s Pool. Really pretty spot.
  • Mangawhero Falls. The second LOTR film location for Gollum’s Pool. Taller waterfall.
  • Tongariro National Trout Centre. Education space with lots of rainbow trout.

Food & Drink

  • Spiral Restaurant. Located inside The Park hotel had really nice food and ambiance. Also good if you just want to sit by the fireplace and have a drink.

Tips

  • Where To Stay. The most popular and best positioned area for the alpine crossing to stay is National Park. Plenty of places to stay and to eat. I really liked Adventure Lodge, because it had both private and communal spaces. Other options include Turangi to the north which is a nice small town but farther away from the park, and Ohakune to the south, a similar kind of place, and also has an adventure park.
  • Weather. Starts to slow and shut down as winter approaches, so check things are open before making arrangements. Weather can be very unpredictable and it can get quite cold, especially the closer you get to winter. If it’s raining, windy, and cloudy, I would advise waiting it out and not doing the alpine crossing that day.
  • Preparation. Be at least average fitness level for the alpine crossing. Go in the morning so you finish late afternoon and catch a bus before they stop running. If you think it will take you longer than average, which it may and is nothing to be ashamed of, go as early as possible. You’ll likely encounter some overcast skies, but if you get to the Emerald Lake Lookout, wait it out for a bit so you can get some photos. If you’re at South Crater deciding if you should continue due to weather, at least wait a bit to see if clears. Check the forecast days before, the day before, and in the morning, as things can change. Check the volcano activity and escape routes in case of an, albeit unlikely, eruption.
  • What To Bring. I went in the fall, so this is based on that time of year, which is on the cooler side. Good hiking shoes and warm cushioned socks. Moleskin or something for blister prevention. Layers! You’ll heat up and cool down based on effort and weather as you traverse the landscape. Long pants, although some wear shorts, base layer t-shirt, hoody, puffer jacket, waterproof rain shell, winter hat, Buff neck gaiter, gloves. You don’t necessarily have to wear all of this from the start or together, but keeping out frigid breezes will keep you warmer longer. Layers will accommodate changes and unpredictability. Wear sunblock, bring a hat, cover up, and wear sunglasses to protect from the sun, which is very intense in New Zealand. A headlamp is helpful in case you take longer and the sun goes down. Bring 1-2L of water per person, snacks, and lunch. Toilets are available on the way, but you’ll need to bring toilet paper.

Other Considerations


Abel Tasman

Punakaiki

Abel Tasman is a beautiful place located in the South Island. From its picture perfect beaches, crystal clear turquoise blue waters, kayaking, tramps, and beach camping, there is a lot to do if you like activities. And there’s a lot not to do if you prefer to relax. Many beautiful areas in the surrounding areas in every direction encourage day trips. Coming from the North Island, Abel Tasman was the perfect entry point into what would become one of my favorite road trips of all time through the less inhabited, nature abundant, spectacular South Island. If you’re taking the ferry arriving in Picton, I would highly recommend budgeting some time to at least drive through Marlborough Sound and Nelson. I’d spend at least 3 days, but you could easily spend a week, depending on what interests you.

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See & Do

  • Abel Tasman Track. Popular with backpackers and hikers, it’s a nice shaded walk along the cliffside coast with excursions down to the beach for swimming, kayaking, sunbathing, or just having some lunch. Several beaches are open for camping too. You can also ferry to some of the beach inlets along the track if you’re short on time or energy. Coquille Bay is your first major viewpoint. Akersten Bay a nice spot for camping. The best views are up at Torrent Bay, with viewpoints on each side. Pitt Head Lookout and Te Pukatea are nice views on the opposite side. It’s a decently far walk if you’re just day hiking, but as noted, you can also ferry there or ferry on the return instead of walking back to the starting point. Cleopatra’s Pool offers swimming holes in the forest.
  • Te Waikoropupu (Pupu) Springs. Crystal clear spring fed pond with an array of colors. Short walk around the springs.
  • Farewell Split. One of the coolest and unique parts of Abel Tasman. Puponga Hilltop Walk has views of Golden Bay and is a nice little hike. Cape Farewell is a nice viewpoint. Wharariki Beach is an awesome dune like beach great for photos.
  • State Cinemas Motueka. Cool little movie theater.

Food & Drink

  • Anchor Restaurant and Bar. Good seafood and New Zealand green mussels.
  • Tides Bar & Eatery. Nice modern food and mussels.
  • Pomeroys Coffee & Tea. Nice tea and coffee selection.
  • Organic Foods Nelson. Great place for healthy snacks and other products.
  • Toad Hall. Store with light groceries, pre-made food, and ice cream with adjoining restaurant.

Nearby

  • Marlborough Sound. Beautiful area with some really nice scenic drives and viewpoints like Cullen Point Lookout (short hike) and French Pass, which is pretty far out. Okiwi Bay is a nice stop or place to stay if you’re looking for a beach stay. Havelock is the place to stay if you want hang around Marlborough Sound and is the gateway to wine country in that region. The scenic drives are quite far out of the way if you’re not staying in the area, but doable en route to or day trip from Nelson.
  • Westport. Small town. Entry point to the South Island’s West Coast. The Seal Colony at Cape Foulwind in Turanga Bay is really cool. The seals are pretty abundant, active, and make for great entertainment and photos.
  • Pancake Rocks. Incredible feat of nature with a short walk up close to the rocks and gorgeous views of the ocean. This is part of the Punakaiki area which has a few other hikes and natural attractions if you have time or need a place to stop over on your coastal drive.
  • Greymouth. Not really a destination in itself, but a good halfway point between Abel Tasman or Westport and Franz Josef. Nearby Hokitika has a cool river spot running inland and also the Glowworm Dell.

Tips

  • Getting Here. If your’e flying, this is a bit harder to get to, but you can fly into Nelson or Picton and then rent a car. Or you can take the ferry from Wellington to Picton either with your rental (car or van) or rent when you get there. If you’re doing a campervan, definitely ferry over with it. For cars, you can either keep your car or drop off and rent another one when you get there. I found the former to be easiest as long as your rental car company doesn’t charge you a large fee. Check with them to make sure you’re able to.
  • Where To Stay. Nelson has the most amenities and is the largest town in the area. If you’re looking for a home base, this is the best all around option in my opinion and I think it’s generally a cool little town. If you’re in a campervan or want to maximize time in each place exploring up to Farewell Split, consider a combination of Nelson, Mueteka, and Takaka.

Franz Josef

Fox Glacier Viewpoint

Only in New Zealand can you go from sub-tropical coast to glacier. Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers are massive glaciers surrounded by beautiful natural forests and valleys. Although climate change has significantly reduced the size of these glaciers, they’re still quite large. It’s difficult to really appreciate unless you see something for scale. I saw a helicopter flying around in front that looked like a fly compared to Franz Josef Glacier. While you can only go on the glaciers with a guide or see up close via helicopter, there are some nice walks along the valley and through the forests. The town of Franz Josef is a great place to stay and has the most food options. Rainforest Retreat is super cool. You can also stay in the town of Fox Glacier, but there’s less there. If just wanting to see the glaciers, 2-3 days is sufficient. If you’re slow traveling or wanting some relaxation time, it’s a nice place for that as well. It’s on the cooler side and can be rainy at various times of the year. Definitely seize the opportunity to cram in what you can on a clear day if rain is in the forecast. Roberts Track is the best view of Franz Josef Glacier. Fox Glacier Valley Walk is a decent hike, but you won’t get great views of the glacier. There’s a better view at Fox Glacier Viewpoint out towards Lake Matheson. Absolutely stunning panoramic view. There’s a restaurant and lake walk at Lake Matheson.

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Tips

  • Mt Cook / Aoraki. As a side note, Mt Cook is on the other side of these glaciers, but not accessible to drive directly there. However, you can take a helicopter ride to see Franz Josef, Fox, and Mt Cook from here.

Wellington

Wellington

If you’re looking for an artsy, hipster, beachside city, Wellington is the place for you. It’s exudes a vibe of Portland meets San Diego. This hilly cliffside city has a burgeoning art scene, in part thanks to Peter Jackson and the Weta Workshop, that also caters to surfers. Nearby forests and parks offer additional nature for those that love the outdoors. Cuba Street is the main drag filled with indie shops, restaurants, and hipsters. Beehive and Old Government Buildings is the historical area. Newtown is a cool little neighborhood, as is Kilbirnie. I highly recommend a Weta Workshop tour. They not only helped create Lord of the Rings, but also had major contributions to many other film productions over the decades. There’s a Wellington sign propped up on the hill like the Hollywood sign in Los Angeles. Oriental Bay is another nice centrally located beach spot, Mount Victoria offers great views, and the free Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa displays native culture and natural history. You can see the highlights of Wellington in a couple days, but it’s also a nice place to hang out for longer if you need a break.

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Food & Drink

  • Squirrel NZ. Nice cafe.
  • Dumpling’d. All kinds of dumplings.
  • Commonsense. Awesome organic grocery store.
  • Skipping Stone Cafe & Eatery. Nice cafe.
  • Maranui Cafe. Great food with great views.

Tips

  • Weta. I liked Weta in both Auckland and Wellington, but if I had to pick one, I’d go for Wellington. Book in advance, it sells out!

Auckland

Point Chevalier Street Mural

The largest city in New Zealand is the jumping off point for most foreign visitors. It’s a small major city that doesn’t feel overwhelming. The city offers some quirk and nice green spaces. For some reason Kiwis don’t have much fondness for Auckland, but I thought it was cool. That said, spending just a couple days to explore while getting over your jet lag as you gear up for the amazing adventure that awaits you is probably best for most visitors. When visiting Downtown CBD, head to Queen Street, O’Connell St, Vulcan Ln, and Takutai Square. If you want to explore some neighborhoods, Newmarket and Ponsonby (check out Open Book) are worth a visit. Wynyard Quarter is great for seafood. If you’re looking for something slightly more suburb with solid breakfast spots, look at Point Chevalier, which I stayed in a nice quiet AirBnB. A little farther out is Devenport, which is nice if you have the time. You’ll get great city views at Mount Victoria there. The other Weta Workshop space is located in the CBD for their unleashed Tour and workshops.

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Food & Drink

  • Honest Chocolat. Not only is the chocolate fantastic, but Manuka honey as well. I also had cocoa husk tea which tasted exactly like it sounds, if you can imagine that anyway.
  • Daruma Ramen. There was a ramen shop I loved with the same name in Austin, TX which drew me here. Not an offshoot, but pretty good if you’re looking for some quick ramen.
  • Sanford and Sons Fishmonger. Well known for their seafood. There’s an entire food hall and strip of restaurants in Wynyard, easily accessible by bus.
  • Farro Grey Lynn. Gourmet grocery store.
  • Chapter Book & Tea Shop. Really nice tea selection and books to read while you sit and sip tea.
  • Woolworths. Major grocery chain.
  • Nomad. Mediterranean cuisine.
  • Sages Indian. Nice Indian options.
  • The Corner Cafe. Nice breakfast spot.
  • Twisted Tomato Cafe & Eatery. My go to breakfast spot near where I stayed.
  • The Pt Chev Beach Cafe. Nice healthy breakfast and lunch.
  • Westmere Fresh Living Store. Produce market.

Nearby

  • Coromandel Peninsula. I did this as a day trip, as it wasn’t really warm enough to fully enjoy in April, but I wanted to check it out. This is a great place to visit for a couple days for beach activities. I visited Hot Water Beach and Hahei Beach which were both nice.
  • Bay of Islands. Renowned for diving opportunities among many other sea based adventures with beautiful turquoise blue waters. More difficult as a day trip, best experienced as its own destination.
  • Waitomo Glowworm Caves. Possible to do as a day trip from Auckland or en route to your next destination as I did when traveling to Rotorua.
  • Hobbiton. Possible to do as a day trip from Auckland or en route to your next destination as I did when traveling to Rotorua.
  • Zealong Tea Estate. This place is a real treat for tea enthusiasts. It’s a local tea plantation that’s been around for a few decades and produces some really smooth and unique teas. The flavor profiles are just a bit different than other teas of the same name and type. You can tour the grounds and sit for tea. It’s best to make a reservation for whichever you choose to do. The tea masters are very knowledgable and friendly.
  • Fo Guang Shan Buddhist Temple. For lovers and practitioners of Buddhism.
  • Otara Flea Market. Outdoor parking lot Saturday farmer’s market. Parking is crowded and tight.

Tips

  • Getting There. It’s a long flight to Auckland from the U.S. from the west coast. You can also fly direct from Houston, TX. Air New Zealand is a great airline and if you can swing the innovative SkyCouch, go for it. You’ll likely sleep through at least half of the flight, making it feel like flying to Europe, or even shorter. Flying into Auckland is usually the easiest way to arrive in New Zealand. Christchurch is another major airport hub offering many flight options. Even if you don’t plan to spend much time in Auckland, it’s the perfect place to arrive and then drive or fly to your next destination.
  • Getting Around. Auckland has good public transit. I traveled around by bus using an AT HOP card which is easy to swipe and top up online. You can use their app or Google Maps for bus routes and times. If you’re driving, be aware there are some toll roads you’ll need to pay for by setting up an online account. Check with your rental car company.

The Caitlins

McLean Falls

The Caitlins are a wonderland of forests and waterfalls. I ended up spending an extra couple days in New Zealand and was able to fit this in while down in Invercargill. A lovely area filled with scenic drives, forests, ocean bays, beaches, and of course waterfalls. I only had a single day, so my list of recommendations is short, but you can fit quite a bit into a short time. I took the southern route from Invercargill along the coast to Curio Bay, Cathedral Caves, and out to Florence Hill. Then ventured inland on the return to McLean Falls which was absolutely magnificent. This relatively short hike gets you right up to the base of the falls. Due to time and weather, that’s about all I had time for. Koropuku Falls and Waipohatu Waterfall were also on my list. I think The Caitlins would be a nice place to spend a couple days relaxing and hiking in the countryside.

Stewart Island

Stewart Island

Many locals rave about Stewart Island. Most of it is undeveloped and thus offers some unique opportunities to experience wildlife. In particular birds. I didn’t explore it much, just a quick trip for the day, but most people stay over 1 or 2 nights to explore the island. If you go for the day, the hike to Ackers Point is nice, and you’ll likely see some cool birds on the walk. RealNZ offers ferry service from Bluff to Oban. Takes 1 hour and the seas can get a little rough in the small catamaran as you cross open water. It’s also possible to fly. Staying in Bluff is closest. It’s smaller than neighboring Invercargill about 20 minutes away, which will have more options for lodging and food. You can park overnight in the carpark at the dock for a fee, or it may be free if you enter and leave same day.

Cost Breakdown

  • Flights: $2,428 (flight from Texas)
  • Lodging: $2,985 (AirBnB)
  • Transportation: $3,016 (rental car, public transit)
  • Activities: $555 (attractions, caves, parks)
  • Food: $1,980 (estimated $60/day)

Total: $10,964

*Flight from the U.S. was Air New Zealand's Skycouch vs typical Economy fare.

General Tips

  • Arrival Prerequisites. Due to the amazing biodiversity and strong desire for preservation, New Zealand is quite the stickler for rules when entering the country. There are few things you need to know about arriving in New Zealand regarding this and also the visa. If you don't make your arrangements ahead of time, it could impact your ability to enter the country. The immigration website provides all the information you need. Don't bring in certain types of food, wash the dirt off any hiking gear, including tents, jackets, and most importantly boots. For most travelers, at least Americans, you can stay up to 90 days on a visa, which you will need to apply for ahead of time. It's pretty quick, but I would suggest doing this at least a week before you plan to leave. You'll also need proof of your return or onward journey out of New Zealand. Probably not a big deal for most, but it's a pain if you're unsure how long you plan to stay. If you're really unsure or need flexibility, consider paying extra for your flight that allows changes. Or just accept the potential for a change fee and flight price difference. I originally was planning to start in Auckland and end in Christchurch. However, once I got into more detailed planning, I realized it was better for me to end in Queenstown for continuing on to Melbourne. There were better flight options and I also wanted to spend time elsewhere without having to get to Christchurch. Simply to say, both dates and locations may change.
  • Weather & UV. New Zealand has some of the highest UV ratings in the world, making it very easy to get nasty sunburns. Wear sunblock always when outside and cover up. Also wear UV lip balm or you could get badly burned. I've been many places, but even when it's cool outside, the UV rays here are the most intense I've experienced. And you don't even realize it.
  • Car vs. Campervan. Car vs. Campervan. As it turns out, in the current market, it's roughly the same cost to do car + AirBnB as a campervan, especially factoring in gas. I considered both, really wanting to explore by campervan. There were a couple of reasons I went the car + AirBnB route. I was unsure about the roads, especially mountain roads, I didn't want to feel restricted if wanting to veer off the main roads. This also allowed more flexibility for lodging. That said, if I were to go back, I'd very likely rent a campervan. The smaller van options are not that much bigger than the SUV I rented. The roads are narrow and winding, but not like I thought when picturing mountain towns here in the U.S. like in Colorado. And I didn't come across any F Roads like in Iceland. I saw plenty of well equipped overlanding vehicles, but for the average adventurer, especially first trip to New Zealand, didn't seem necessary.
  • Rental Car. I prefer to go local where possible as the cars are usually a bit older and thus cheaper, plus good for the local economy. I rented with Omega who had great customer service, rates, and car selection. I also considered Apex and Budget who also had good rates. I wanted a particular SUV, so if that's a priority, review rental car fleets before booking. Check with your credit card to see what rental car insurance is included abroad, as you may be able to decline insurance without issue. If you plan on exploring more off the beaten path, consider the rental company's options, though in all probability you won't need it. It's all based on your risk tolerance and where you plan to drive. Check with the company if you plan to cross the Cook Strait with the car and have a one-way drop-off.
  • Campervans. There are numerous companies that offer campervans. I considered Jucy, Mad Campers, and Wicked Campers which have some on the smaller side. The most important thing to figure out is your pickup and drop off points because that will heavily influence the company and specific van you choose. Most companies offer Auckland and Christchurch. Some also offer Queenstown. If you plan to do freedom camping managed by the DOC, which is free at designated places across the country, it must be self contained. Meaning it has a toilet and you can properly dispose of waste. Check with the company if you plan to cross the Cook Strait with the campervan and have a one-way drop-off.
  • Ferry. The main companies that cross the Cook Strait are Blue Bridge and Interislander. I chose the latter. The 3-3.5 hour journey has plenty of comfort and some amazing views. It's a big ship that's relatively smooth, but if you get seasick I would recommend using something like Dramamine or Reliefband. There are tables, row seats, and areas in the front of the ship with a view. There are family areas and private rooms for extra if you want the most comfortable experience. If you do want a view or table, try and find one early and claim it. There are multiple levels and the ships are huge. You can go with just yourself and luggage or with a car or campervan.
  • Planning Hikes. Plan My Walk is a great resource to help you plan your hiking activities and explore the multitude of trails and tramps throughout the country.

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